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“It’s like there’s an invisible eye everywhere,” said Alice Muhirwa, a member of an opposition political party. Many Rwandans told me that they feel as if their president is personally watching them. In some areas of the country, there are rules, enforced by village commissars, banning people from dressing in dirty clothes or sharing straws when drinking from a traditional pot of beer, even in their own homes, because the government considers it unhygienic. Few people inside Rwanda feel comfortable speaking freely about the president, and many aspects of life are dictated by the government - Kagame’s administration recently embarked on an “eradication campaign” of all grass-roofed huts, which the government meticulously counted (in 2009 there were 124,671). They argue that Kagame’s tidy, up-and-coming little country, sometimes described as the Singapore of Africa, is now one of the most straitjacketed in the world. At least, that is what a growing number of critics say, including high-ranking United Nations officials and Western diplomats, not to mention the countless Rwandan dissidents who have recently fled.
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He has a reputation for being merciless and brutal, and as the accolades have stacked up, he has cracked down on his own people and covertly supported murderous rebel groups in neighboring Congo. The question is not so much about his results but his methods. The Clinton Global Initiative honored him with a Global Citizen award, and Bill Clinton said that Kagame “freed the heart and the mind of his people.”īut Kagame may be the most complicated leader in Africa. He is a regular at Davos, the world economic forum, and friendly with powerful people, including Bill Gates and Bono.
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to thumb through back issues of The Economist or study progress reports from red-dirt villages across his country, constantly searching for better, more efficient ways to stretch the billion dollars his government gets each year from donor nations that hold him up as a shining example of what aid money can do in Africa. Spartan, stoic, analytical and austere, he routinely stays up to 2 or 3 a.m. Measured against many of his colleagues, like the megalomaniac Robert Mugabe of Zimbabwe, who ran a beautiful, prosperous nation straight into the ground, or the Democratic Republic of Congo’s amiable but feckless Joseph Kabila, who is said to play video games while his country falls apart, Kagame seems like a godsend. No country in Africa, if not the world, has so thoroughly turned itself around in so short a time, and Kagame has shrewdly directed the transformation. Nowadays, it’s hard to find even a jaywalker. Rwandans say it is difficult for any outsider to appreciate how horrifying it was. During Rwanda’s genocide, the majority Hutus turned on the minority Tutsis, slaughtering an estimated one million men, women and children, most dispatched by machetes or crude clubs. But Rwanda is one of the safest places I’ve been, this side of Zurich, which is hard to reconcile with the fact that less than 20 years ago more civilians were murdered here in a three-month spree of madness than during just about any other three-month period in human history, including the Holocaust. The night before, I strolled back to my hotel from a restaurant well past midnight - a stupid idea in just about any other African capital. There aren’t even large slums in Kigali, because the government simply doesn’t allow them. In Rwanda, vagrants and petty criminals have been scooped up by the police and sent to a youth “rehabilitation center” on an island in the middle of Lake Kivu that some Rwandan officials jokingly call their Hawaii - because it is so lush and beautiful - though people in Kigali whisper about it as if it were Alcatraz. There were no homeless youth sleeping on the sidewalks or huffing glue to kill their hunger. There was no garbage in the streets and none of the black plastic bags that get tangled up in the fences and trees of so many other African cities - Kagame’s government has banned them. I passed the Union Trade Center mall in the middle of town, where traffic circulates smoothly around a giant fountain. Even on a Saturday morning, platoons of women in white gloves rhythmically swept the streets, softly singing to themselves. Whenever I’m in Kigali, I am always impressed by how spotless it is, how the city hums with efficiency, which is all the more remarkable considering that Rwanda remains one of the poorest nations in the world.
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Kagame’s office is on top of a hill near the center of Kigali, Rwanda’s capital, and I took a taxi there, driven by a man in a suit and tie.
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Paul Kagame, the president of Rwanda, agreed to meet me at 11 a.m.